We knew today was going to be a reasonably long walk. We had not considered how inaccurate the map distances quoted by our trip company would be. Nor had we considered that the up and down hilly bit meant to the top and back to the absolute bottom over not easy paths.
We took off from the Chollerford museum where we stamped our passport. So we skipped a few km going through the village, no big deal.after two not very steep hills I decked to give I and have a puf from my asthma disk. I hardly use it anymore, but clearly going uphill is A struggle for my lungs. After that I was much better. At first the trip was lovely, not as many climbing obstacles as the day before, still a fair few more user-friendly gates.
SO and I had a lovely lunch in the grass with a nice view over Northumberland. The day was very very sunny and we used our sunscreen a lot. Still up on the ridge there was enough wind to keep us from overheating. After about 18 km we were at Housesteads a Roman fort, where we sat for a few minutes. It was insanely busy with walkers there until we realized it was a Sunday so lots of families on an outing. After about half an hour we set out again.
For the fort we had to go to Once Brewed, past the Steel Rigg Crag, now that is an ominous name and believe me it is well deserved. From the fort onward the hills become less friendly, higher and with it the lower parts deeper. Not only that, gone were the rolling slopes, only to be replaced by steep inclines. Some of them were ok-ish, others scared me quite frankly. I really had to channel the inner goat to do that.
My goat however is not well trained and free another downhill that was more of a difficult descent I collapsed. In front of me there was another large very scary looking hill and I was very tired. My legs and knees were killing me and after SO lovingly listening to my sobs we decided to take an alternative approach to Once Brewed. We went to the main road, circumnavigating some cows with calves in the process. Then we followed the B-road, there was no verge, but we managed. On our right hand side we saw what was being asked of us, and I for one was happy not to have to walk that bit.
Our B&B was on the main road and as such easy to find. We had a meal in the only pub there and it was interesting. Let’s just say that it was very very classic English fare, which met all prejudices around roast beef in a pub imaginable. We slept well, after all we had crashed